Home Forums 🛋️ The Living Room style & wellness The making of an AMVCA and Met Gala red carpet look with Yemi Shoyemi

The making of an AMVCA and Met Gala red carpet look with Yemi Shoyemi

Home Forums 🛋️ The Living Room style & wellness The making of an AMVCA and Met Gala red carpet look with Yemi Shoyemi

Viewing 1 post (of 1 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #49147
    tkc
    Keymaster
    A horizontal collage set against a beige background patterned with vintage fashion magazine covers. The collage features three distinct images: on the left, a woman in a dramatic red pleated gown in an art gallery; in the center, a portrait of a woman in a black blazer; and on the right, a monochromatic photo of a woman in a black tuxedo suit with a top hat and cane.

    Meet Yemi Shoyemi, a Nigerian designer combining her rich heritage and artistic vision to create breathtaking couture for prestigious events like the AMVCA and the Met Gala

     

    Yemi Shoyemi is a Nigerian fashion designer with an impressive resume. She is known for her emotionally driven couture, intricate tailoring, and a steadily expanding fashion house that spans bridalwear, occasion pieces, and emerging ready-to-wear collections. With 15 years of artistry, she has become a go-to designer for prestigious events like the African Magic Viewer’s Choice Awards (AMVCA) and last year, she designed her first-ever look for the Met Gala

    This year’s AMVCA was no different. She was tasked with designing a custom piece for the nine-time AMVCA nominee, Bolaji Ogunmola. In a ruby red body-hugging silhouette, Ogunmola stole the show and embodied the AMVCA’s theme of “Honouring Craft, Celebrating Culture ”. Her choice to go with Yemi Shoyemi was a divine one because, beyond the eponymous label’s exquisite tailoring, its practice is rooted in something more intimate. It is a lifelong relationship with fabric, inherited from generations of seamstresses in her family.

    In this exclusive interview, Shoyemi reflects on her journey from childhood curiosity in a tailoring room to dressing some of the continent’s most recognisable figures. She also discusses ambition, emotional design, and the evolving identity of African fashion on global stages.

     

    Read also: These Nigerian artists at the Venice Biennale are expanding cultural influence globally

     

    Building a unique, creative identity with a legacy of fashion

    A studio portrait of a woman with a poised expression against a dark background. She is wearing a sharp black blazer with satin lapels over a matching black top. Her right hand, featuring a pink manicure and gold rings, is tucked under her chin, while her left arm is folded across her waist. She has her hair pulled back and is wearing elegant gold hoop earrings.
    Yemi Shoyemi via Yemi Shoyemi

    When asked to introduce herself, Shoyemi leans into simplicity. She states, “I’m just a girl who loves fashion.” After a pause, she expands: “I think for me what I really do love is the fact that you can… I love architecture. So building something from scratch and then just being able to hold things together.” But as the conversation unfolds, it becomes clear that her work carries far more complexity.

    When prompted further about identity, she deflects complexity again. She explains, “Yemi is just a simple girl who loves what she does,” she adds, “So just having to hold things up together, putting different things together and just creating something. So I think that’s what I like.” The repetition of “simple” contrasts sharply with the intricacy of her work. But for someone who has been in fashion as long as she has, perhaps it has become second nature that even the complex can be seen as a part of her.

     

    Born into a fashion lineage

    A woman poses against a neutral backdrop with overturned classical columns on the floor. She wears a golden-bronze two-piece set consisting of a high-neck, sleeveless pleated crop top and a matching mermaid-style floor-length skirt. Gold accessories and an elegant updo finish the look.
    Angel Anosike for the 2025 AMVCA wearing Yemi Shoyemi via @yemishoyemi on Instagram

    Shoyemi’s relationship with fashion is self-invented and inherited. She recalls her earliest memories in fashion, which are stitched into family history. “I started making things from the age of four,” she reveals. Her grandmother was a tailor who worked internationally, travelling between Nigeria and London. “She used to work with fashion houses in London, where she would tailor.” 

    Her mother followed in the same craft, making clothes for children. The continuity of sewing machines, fabric scraps and pattern cutting formed the backdrop of her childhood. Yet Yemi is clear that this was a chosen life path. “My mom didn’t even want me there. She was always sending me away, but I just always loved to work with my hands.”

    She describes dismantling fabric pieces and reassembling them instinctively. Jokingly, she says, “I like to dismantle things… try to dismantle it and then put it back together.” This instinct has become a part of her and her design process, as she loves discovering more about her muses so she can reconstruct their essence in garments. When she reflects on her childhood and on her relationship with fashion, she says, “Fashion found me, not the other way around.”

    Even as she later pursued formal education in London, she recalls being told she already possessed advanced knowledge. “Most of the time, the reference I get is that you already know this thing.” But she insisted on continuous learning, and she is proud of that choice, saying, “Even right now I still feel you always have to learn.”

     

    Read also: Y2K fashion and beauty trends that make us miss old Nollywood — and deserve a comeback

     

    Making a dress for the AMVCA with Yemi Shoyemi

    A woman stands in a modern gallery in front of an abstract painting, wearing a vibrant red one-shoulder gown. The dress has a pleated bodice and a sheer beaded panel on the thigh, with a large fabric rose at the hip that transitions into a long, dramatic train.
    Bolaji Ogunmola for the 2026 AMVCA wearing Yemi Shoyemi via @yemishoyemi on Instagram

    For many, Yemi Shoyemi’s name is instantly tied to several standout AMVCA moments. This includes the black dress worn by Toni Tones in 2025 that sparked conversation across social media, and the ethereal golden two-piece worn by Angel Anosike in the same year.

    This year, for the 12th edition, her muse was the renowned Nigerian actress, Bolaji Ogunmola, who was nominated for co-producing and starring in the film “Gingerrr”. As a star of the night, Shoyemi knew the outfit had to be fit for a well-decorated actress, and got to work.

     

    Designing for Bolaji Ogunmola

    Everyone saw the final moments: Bolaji Ogunmola in a striking red gown worn with embellished hips walking down the red carpet at Eko Hotel and Suites. Even if you missed the live broadcasts, the internet was swift to praise the craftsmanship. But Shoyemi was at home, relieved that this piece she had meticulously created was being recognised and celebrated. It was a piece that embodied Yemi’s signature approach to femininity, structure and design.

    But the true difference for her was the first steps.  Some red carpet looks that begin with a brief or theme, this one began with intention. “I already had an idea of what I wanted to do,” she explains. “I wanted the dress to be very feminine and to do a bit of sculpting.”

    A detailed close-up shot focusing on the midsection of a red gown. It highlights the vertical pleating of the fabric, a central fabric rose, and sheer side panels adorned with starburst-patterned red beadwork. The woman’s hands rest on the gown, showing a large ring and a neutral manicure.
    A close-up  of Bolaji Ogunmola wearing Yemi Shoyemi via @yemishoyemi on Instagram

    That vision existed even before the muse was confirmed. But once Ogunmola entered the picture, the design evolved into something more specific and personal. “When you’re working for a woman, I like to see what part of the body we need to centralise,” she says. “It’s not just putting a garment on someone. It has to be a good blend.”

    The process became collaborative, involving stylist input, multiple meetings, and a clear alignment of direction. “We had about two or three meetings before we decided on what we’re going to do,” she recalls. Eventually, one design stood above the rest. “This is it. This is what I’m going to do.”

     

    How long does it take to make an AMVCA dress?

    A woman stands in a bright, minimalist room wearing a dramatic black velvet strapless gown. The dress features a deep, sculpted neckline and an extreme corset-style waist, flowing into a massive skirt of voluminous ruffles that pool around her. She has a sleek, low bun and long, shimmering earrings.
    Toni Tones for the 2025 AMVCA wearing Yemi Shoyemi via @yemishoyemi on Instagram

    Despite the polish of the final look, the timeline behind it was far from luxurious. “We had about six, seven weeks,” Shoyemi says. She considers this a reasonable timeframe, but still demanding given the level of detail required. More broadly, she notes that AMVCA timelines are usually even tighter. “You will probably start working in a month. It is often four or five weeks.”

    When compared to global couture timelines — where garments can take up to a year — the pressure becomes even more apparent. “So when you want to create something like what you see on the Met, a month is short timing.” 

    This is true as guests are often sent the Met Gala dress code months before the event in May. But while this timing is not her favourite, and the expectation remains the same, she will always deliver with impact and precision.

     

    Into the production process for the 2026 AMVCA dress

    A pile of deep red satin ribbons and fabric scraps lies on a white work surface in an atelier. The ribbons are various lengths and widths, showing raw, slightly frayed edges, suggesting they are being prepared for the intricate pleated detailing of a garment.
    Process shots for the 2026 AMVCA dress via Yemi Shoyemi

    Once the direction was locked, the process moved into execution with a month-long hourglass running. “I stock my fabrics,” Shoyemi explains. “I don’t always wait till when an opportunity presents itself.” She advises that instead of sourcing under pressure, she turned to her existing archive, selecting fabrics and colour options that aligned with her vision. From there, the team refined the final choice collaboratively.

    The design was then translated into a toile — a mock version of the garment used to test structure and fit. “We usually start with a toile draft, just to be sure that whatever ideas you’ve had look exactly like what you were thinking.”

    A vibrant red couture gown is displayed on a cream-colored mannequin in a studio setting. The dress features a structured, one-shoulder bodice with diagonal pleating and sheer, beaded side panels at the hips. The fabric gathered at the centre of the waist flows into a massive, floor-sweeping train that spreads out across the light wood floor. 
    The toile for the 2026 AMVCA dress via Yemi Shoyemi

    For Ogunmola’s AMVCA dress, the response was swift. “She absolutely fell in love with it.” From that point forward, the process remained unusually smooth. “Not one challenge at all,” Shoyemi says. “A very smooth and generous process.”

    While the structure of the dress was carefully engineered, its emotional impact came largely from colour. For Shoyemi, selecting red was instinctive: “I saw her skin tone, and I put the red beside it, and it was just pure magic.” The result was a look that amplified her presence. The dress became a message, “Hello, everyone, this is Bolaji Ogunmola. I know you know her, and even if you didn’t, now you do.”

     

    The final fitting

    A vibrant red couture gown is displayed on a cream-colored mannequin in a studio setting. The dress features a structured, one-shoulder bodice with diagonal pleating and sheer, beaded side panels at the hips. The fabric gathered at the centre of the waist flows into a massive, floor-sweeping train that spreads out across the light wood floor. 
    Process shots for the 2026 AMVCA dress via Yemi Shoyemi

    The last fitting for the dress came on May 8, a day before the AMVCA, and Shoyemi got emotional. She admits that it is not the first time it has happened. “The design process is my favourite part,” she says. “And then seeing the final result is like a cherry on the cake.”

    That emotional connection extends beyond the red carpet. From bridal to celebrity, her goal remains consistent. “When you create, it evokes some sort of emotion.” She recalls one of her earliest clients — a bride who continues to reach out years later, expressing how the dress made her feel. “That gives me so much joy.”

     

    Read also: Meet Chuks Collins, the designer who went from LASU to the Met Gala, reimagined Eden, and reinvented himself along the way

     

    Designing for the Met Gala

    A monochromatic portrait of a woman standing with a dark cane. She wears a structured black velvet tuxedo suit with wide-leg trousers and a blazer featuring a floor-length cape on one shoulder. Her outfit is layered over a white shirt with a large, ruffled neckpiece, and she completes the look with a black top hat.
    Seyitan Atigarin for the 2025 Met Gala wearing Yemi Shoyemi via @yemishoyemi on Instagram

    The AMVCA is often called the “African Met Gala”, and Shoyemi really hates that term. “I disagree entirely with that,” she says. “They’re completely two different things. Two different narratives.” She continues with conviction: “I don’t know why people keep saying that. It’s an award event that should be celebrated as it is to recognise our film.” Her frustration is with the misrepresentation. “It’s not a fashion event,” she stresses. “Let’s remember we are celebrating our actors, producers, and writers.”

    She unveils a deep admiration for the work that goes into filmmaking. Furthermore, no one can challenge her support for fashion, which is why, in 2025, she was contacted to make a look for the Met Gala. The theme was Superfine: Tailoring Black Style, and her muse was Seyitan Atigarin.

    “I saw the theme, and said I would like to design an outfit for this, and then it came to me,” she admits. “It was like ticking a bucket list.” What drew her in most was the intellectual design. “This one was about tailoring,” she explains. “I wanted to show my skills differently.”

    The black and white suit ensemble, accessorised with a bowler hat and a cane, that she created for Atigarin showed her tactful understanding of the theme. When describing the look she created, she explains that it required her to adapt due to the fabric. “Velvet flows and slips, so we had to get that fluidity to be more structured.” It was a technical challenge, but one that reinforced her versatility as a designer.

     

    What’s next for Yemi Shoyemi?

    When asked about future ambitions, Shoyemi does not hesitate. “Oscars,” she says simply. The declaration is framed as an intention. Her PR manager responds playfully, “I guess I have my work cut out for me next year,” but Shoyemi remains grounded in possibility.

    She is already thinking beyond borders, beyond African red carpets, toward global cinematic fashion stages. When asked who she would like to dress, she pauses: “There are so many people to be honest, maybe your name will come to my mind.”

    She never comes to a conclusive answer but ends with gratitude, and perhaps that is the essence of her practice. She understands fashion as a memory and a feeling. One that is carefully stitched together across generations and ambitions yet to come.

     

    Read more: When fashion becomes art: our best-dressed stars from the 2026 Met Gala

     

    React to this post!
    Love
    0

    Kisses
    0

    Haha
    0

    Star
    0

    Weary
    0

    The post The making of an AMVCA and Met Gala red carpet look with Yemi Shoyemi appeared first on Marie Claire Nigeria.

Viewing 1 post (of 1 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.

Comments are closed.

New Report

Close